I spent a good portion of the afternoon curled up in bed, reading about surfing today. I suppose this is natural, given that all the water is frozen here, and the idea of going anywhere warm seems tantalizingly out of reach at the moment. Being under covers mid-afternoon seemed particularly nice.
Barbarian Days A Surfing Life isn’t a book that’s hard to put down. It’s a book that it easy to pick up. Meaning, I’m happy to leave off in Hawaii, California, Turkey, Fiji, Samoa, or Australia where the main character has traveled, and pick it up again the next day. I’ll be unhappy when the end arrives.
It’s a book that embodies my own sense of wanderlust for places unknown. As I read it, I can feel the exquisite agony of being an outsider in a foreign land, never fully accepted by the locals, and the safety of being a stranger, content to observe and explore and never root down.
The two main characters went to graduate school at the University of Montana, and my favorite sentence in the book is this one: “Bryan, loyal to scruffy Idaho, sniffed, ‘Montana has a hard-on for itself.’” True, so very true.
I want to thank the Vagabrothers for doing a video blog on the 26 best travel books ever written and recommending this book. It’s been easy to pick up.